현대사부터 고려시대까지 파주의 역사를 아우르며 답사를 한 책이 나왔다. 이 책을 읽으면 독자들은 파주에 이야기가 이렇게 많이 숨어있다는 데 놀랄지 모른다. 대개 파주 하면 DMZ를 떠올리지만, 분단되기 전 파주는 개성의 인삼과 새로운 문물이 들어오는 서울의 ‘문’과 같은 곳이었다. 또 서울의 사람이 개성으로, 의주로, 그리고 대륙으로 가는 첫 길목이었다. 이 책은 알려진 파주 이야기를 더 깊게 보여주고, 알려지지 않은 파주 이야기를 새로이 발굴한다.

저자는 한국 현대사의 큰 장벽인 DMZ에서 출발해 근현대사를 품고 흐르는 임진강, 조선시대와 고려시대 문화의 중심지였던 파주의 이야기를 들려준다. 현장의 사진이 저자의 글을 단단하게 뒷받침한다. 판문점 안 낯선 추모비의 정체와 DMZ 안에 지어질 수밖에 없던 포로수용소, 영국군의 희생으로 중공군의 남하를 저지한 설마리 전투, 성당 건물을 구호품으로 받은 갈곡리 마을, 기호학파의 산실이 된 서원의 유래와 영조까지 개입한 파평 윤씨와 청송 심씨의 400년 묘지 다툼, 한 번 보면 잊을 수 없는 용미리 마애불 등 파주는 무궁무진 흥미진진하다.

프롤로그 _ 파주의 어제와 오늘 ··· 2

파주 지도 ··· 10



첫날, 비무장지대를 가다

멀지만 가까운 관광지 판문점 ············································ 14

？ 다단계 출입 절차 ·························································· 14

？ 드디어 판문점 ······························································· 19

？ 위상과는 사뭇 다른 인상 ················································ 22

？ 남북 모두의 관광지 ······················································· 25

판문점에서 벌어진 소련인 망명 사건 ································ 36a

？ 추모비의 정체를 찾아 ···················································· 36

？ 소련 청년 분계선을 넘다 ··············································· 40

？ 전쟁 직전까지 간 1984년 판문점 전투 ···························· 42

？ 장명기 상병을 기리며 ···················································· 47

도라전망대에서 볼 수 있는 것 ··········································· 50

？ 24만의 포로가 양산된 한국전쟁 ····································· 62

？ 치열한 이데올로기 전이었던 포로 송환 문제 ··················· 64

？ DMZ에 지을 수밖에 없던 포로수용소 ····························· 68

？ 사건사고가 끊이지 않았다 ············································· 73



이틀째, 임진강은 흐른다

한강과 임진강의 길목 오두산성·······················80

？ 삼국시대부터 중요했다······················· 80

？ 쿠데타에 관련되다······················· 87

？ 오두산성을 지켜보는 장준하 묘소·······················90

임진강 남쪽 235고지 설마리 ······················· 96

？ 성 조지의 날 전야 ·······················97

？ 영국군 글로스터 대대의 궤멸·······················102

？ 설마리 추모공원 가는 길 ·······················107

신앙의 자유를 찾아 숨어든 마을 갈곡리·······················108

？ 수많은 성직자와 수도자를 배출한 작은 골짜기·······················111

？ 성당 건물을 구호품으로 받다·······················14

？ 질그릇 만들던 마을 ·······················117

임진강에서 고기를 잡다 ·······················122

？ 물 반, 고기 반 ······················· 122

？ 고기를 잡으려면 제비를 뽑아야·······················126

？ 91개로 제한된 어업권·······················130



사흘째, 파주의 지역성과 보편성

서울에서 나고도 파주 삼현이라 불린 그들 ························· 136

？ 20대에 만나 평생을 교유한 동무들 ································ 136

？ 편지를 주고받으며 한국 철학사에 한 획을 긋다 ··············· 140

？ 선조의 눈 밖에 난 율곡과 우계 ······································· 144

？ 노비로 전락한 구봉의 기구한 삶 ···································· 148

？ 삼현의 흔적을 찾아 ······················································· 151

반정세력의 근거지가 된 덕진산성 ····································· 154

？ 범 잡으려다 왕위를 잡힌 광해 ········································ 155

？ 인조반정과 12.12쿠데타 비교 ········································· 159

？ 고구려에서 조선까지 이어진 산성 ·································· 160

？ 덕진산성의 현재 ··························································· 162

전설이 된 장단부사 이서 ·················································· 165

？ 이서 전설의 탄생 ·························································· 168

？ 웅담리에 남은 윤관의 슬픈 전설 ···································· 170

？ 그리스 신화에도 나오는 이야기 ····································· 172

？ 동서양이 전설을 공유하는 까닭 ····································· 175

수백 년 만에 발견된 홍랑의 묏버들가 ······························· 177

？ 한국에서 최근 유행하는 노래 ········································· 178

？ 최경창과 홍랑의 사랑과 이별 ········································· 181

？ 묏버들가를 찾아가는 여정 ············································· 186

？ 유라시아를 가로지르는 절류 기원 ·································· 189



나흘째, 의주길을 걷다

소원을 말해봐, 용미리 마애이불 ······································· 196

？ 용꼬리에 선 큰 바위 ······················································ 197

？ 대규모 불사는 누가 일으켰나 ········································· 203

？ 미켈란젤로 버금가는 대가의 솜씨 ·································· 208

고려 건축의 흔적 혜음원지 ··············································· 211

？ 범 내려오던 고갯길 ······················································· 211

？ 혜음사 건립 목적 ·························································· 214

？ 혜음원의 용도를 추적하다 ············································· 219

파평 윤씨와 청송 심씨의 400년 묘지 다툼 ······················· 226

？ 윤관 묘로 지목된 이씨 묘 ·············································· 227

？ 계미년 5월 시작된 산송 ················································· 233

？ 영조의 개입과 갈등의 중단 ············································ 238

？ 시대가 바뀌어 이루어진 두 문중의 화해 ·························· 244

에필로그 _ 여전히 이야기할 것이 많은 곳 ··· 248



참고문헌 ··· 252